Wednesday, April 1, 2009


I had an avocado going south on me, and then I remembered Teresa Barrenechea's splendid treatise on Spanish regional cooking. Sometimes, cooking comes down to channeling, which recipes from which books, which flavors embedded in which crevices.

Mojo is Canarian, the Canary Islands part of Spain but southwest of the Moroccan coast. Fish and meat are the traditional protein for the mojo accompiment, they and the wrinkled, roast, salted potatoes famed of the isles.

Mojo verde, which I made, relies on avocado for silkiness, but it's largely a garlic, oil and sherry vinegar sauce, spiced with cumin and dried chile, and freshened with cilantro (or parsley).

I am about to slather it beneath - and perhaps even atop! - a Spanish tortilla, a dish whose praises I have sung before.

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