Monday, February 16, 2009

Sweet spot

Vermont, sure. California, of course. But cheese, good cheese, from Georgia?

Sweet Grass Dairy of Thomasville (just over the border from Tallahassee) is a family of cheesemakers doing something - maybe many things - right.

The Wehner family makes a Camembert-style cow's cheese called Green Hill that has the affinage and flavor of the real deal - a slight whiff of ammonia, a milky ooze of hay yellow, and a salty-sweet flavor that lingers.

They take care of their cows (the Wehners proclaim their small-farm strategy up front) and the rewards are tangible. I found my round at Judy Allen's shop on Brookside. It was delicious with a wine Kelly bought for our Valentine's moment: Hegarty, a Minervois blend of syrah, carignan and mourvedre. Something about the lactic acids tends to sour me on most wine-and-cheese pairings, but this was spot on.

The Wehners say that the Green Hill goes quite well with Belgian trippel ales. Can't wait.

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